Fancy color diamonds – from rough to polished

At Novel Collection we cut many of our diamonds from rough at our professional cutting facilities. But since we focus on fancy colored diamonds we would like to focus on “before and after” pictures which will be able to give you an insight on how rough diamonds become polished gems.

The techniques of cutting rough Fancy diamonds are significantly different from cutting white diamonds. The rough of a FCD is different in the way the color is saturated in the diamond. It means that in FCD the color is not evenly located inside the stone but is located in a way that the planner and the cutter of the stone need to consider in. This fact also affects the way the cut is planned before the diamond is cut.


Before a rough diamond is cut, a specialist analyzes and designs the cutting process. With white diamonds the designing of the cut aims the get the most brilliance as possible by considering the rough material and possible inclusions. With FCD the most important aspect is showing the color as much as possible, in order to achieve the highest color saturation. Thus the cutting process is different since the difference of one color saturation grade can mean higher value.

As you can see in the pictures the stones are marked with a laser that marks where the table (the top) needs to be in order to gain the most out of the diamond in terms of color and value.

Here are three rough diamonds that we have cut recently. the black lines are laser marks that the rough planner made in order to show the cutter where the crown of the cut diamond should be located in order to “maximize” the cut diamond looks.


1. The rough was 1.60 Ct. before cutting and 0.70 Ct. after and it is Radiant shaped. This is an ideal Radiant cut rough, due to its structure: square and flat. The estimated color of the stone is Fancy Intense Greenish Yellow.

2. The rough was 1.60 Ct. before cutting and 0.71 Ct. after and it is Pear shaped. The rough was interesting to cut due to its odd structure. Estimated color is Fancy Yellow.

3. The rough was 1.27 Ct. before cutting and 0.72 Ct. after and it is Cushion shaped. This is an excellent rough material since the lose of raw material is very small, since you usually lose over 50% of the rough. Estimated color is Fancy Intense Yellow.